This has been an interesting one and a good learning experience for me to get my skills up to date.
The driver complained that it would die when you shifted into reverse.
When I first looked at it, the air filter was filthy and the breather filter was missing so I immediately replaced both of those believing that lack of air would cause the problem.
Unfortunately it did not, so after studying the Mitchel Ondemand5 software for awhile, I decided to clean the throttle body and see if that was part of the problem.
While removing the breather hoses to get access to the throttle body, I noticed a vacuum hose that looked like it had a spot that had nearly burned through it, so I replaced that and sprayed the throttle body on the engine and put a can of Berryman Throttle Body and Carb cleaner in the gas tank and took it out and aired it out for about 10 miles.
At about the mid point, I put it into reverse and it still died and I realized I wasn’t getting anywhere, so I needed to go back to my old navy six step troubleshooting training and thats when I pulled up a wiring diagram.

If you will look at this diagram, you will see that the transmission sensor switch goes to page 2 on pin 31.

When I pull up page 2, I see that there are only 3 sensors that are on this line, so I says to myself.
Idiot, why are you wasting time looking at all of the other possibilities when these are the only components that are affected when you shift into reverse:
- Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor
- EGR Valve Positions Sensor
- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
- Throttle Position Sensor
- Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Now my electronic and computer skills tell me that the only possible one that is going to affect anything is the EGR Valve Position Sensor or the Throttle Position Sensor, so that is what I need to be focusing on and I will update this page as soon as I complete the repair as I need to order a set of OBD1 cables for my new EASE Scan tool as it only came with OBD2 cables for 1996 and newer.
I decided to look up some things to get an idea what it would cost if this actually is the component and NAPA has one for about 35 dollars.
Figure an hour labor and you’re not looking at too high of a repair charge, but I wanted to know how to verify that this part was actually bad and that led me to the following article that you can read by clicking here.
Its raining out today and I don’t have a shop yet, so I thought about hooking up my multimeter to it and testing that way.
But after reading the testing info again, I realized I don’t have a vacuum pump yet, so I will have to wait until I can buy a vacuum pum or the cables mentioned above.
I guess you know where my next available money is going now as I can’t fix these problems without tools.
Posted on March 7th, 2010 by admin
Filed under: 5.8L | No Comments »